Valerie, Author at Connon

August Blooms For A Lasting Perennial Garden

August in Zone 5 can often be a challenging time for gardeners, as the peak of summer brings scorching temperatures and arid conditions. However, there is no need to let your garden wilt under the summer sun. With careful planning and selection, you can enjoy an array of stunning perennials that bloom during this challenging period, infusing your landscape with color and life. Let’s explore some vibrant perennials that flourish in Zone 5 gardens, bringing joy and beauty to your outdoor spaces.

August Blooming Perennials for Sun

Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia fulgida): Black-eyed Susan is a classic late-summer perennial that can thrive in Zone 5. With its cheerful yellow petals and dark centers, these daisy-like blooms attract butterflies and bees, adding movement and activity to your garden.
Coneflowers (Echinacea): Coneflowers are another popular choice for August blooms. These tough and drought-tolerant perennials come in various colors, such as pink, purple, and white, and create a striking visual impact when planted in masses.
Russian Sage (Perovskia atriplicifolia): The airy lavender-blue spikes of Russian Sage add a touch of elegance to any garden. This perennial is not only beautiful but also highly aromatic, filling the air with a pleasant scent.
Helenium (Helenium autumnale): Also known as sneezeweed, Helenium’s bright and bold hues of red, orange, and yellow bring a fiery display to the late summer garden. The name “sneezeweed” is misleading as this perennial does not cause allergies but rather serves as a valuable late-season nectar source for pollinators.
Joe Pye Weed (Eutrochium purpureum): A native to North America, Joe Pye Weed is a tall, majestic perennial with attractive purplish-pink flower clusters. Not only is it a visual delight, but it also attracts butterflies and other pollinators to your garden.
Sedum (Sedum spp.): Sedums are hardy and low-maintenance perennials that come in various shapes and sizes. Their succulent foliage and clusters of star-shaped flowers in shades of pink, red, and white are a treat for the eyes.
Turtlehead (Chelone lyonii): This unique perennial bears flowers that resemble the head of a turtle, hence its name. With its late-blooming pink or white flowers, Turtlehead adds a touch of whimsy and charm to the late summer garden.
Japanese Anemone (Anemone x hybrida): Japanese Anemones are graceful and delicate perennials that produce charming pink or white flowers on tall stems. They thrive in partial shade and bring an ethereal quality to any garden.
Mexican Sunflower (Tithonia rotundifolia): If you’re looking for a burst of vibrant color in August, the Mexican Sunflower is an excellent choice. Its bright orange or red blooms resemble miniature sunflowers and are sure to catch the eye of anyone passing by.
Cardinal Flower (Lobelia cardinalis): This native perennial is a showstopper with its striking red blooms and tall spikes. Hummingbirds are especially fond of the Cardinal Flower, making it a delightful addition to any wildlife-friendly garden.

When planning your August garden in Zone 5, it’s essential to consider the specific growing conditions of your area, including soil type, sun exposure, and moisture levels. Properly caring for these perennials, especially during the hot summer days, will ensure they thrive and continue to bring joy and beauty to your garden for years to come. With a thoughtful selection of these hardy and vibrant perennials, you can transform your garden into a dazzling oasis even during the hottest days of summer.

August can also be a challenging time for shade gardens in Zone 5, as the intense summer heat and limited sunlight can make it difficult for many plants to thrive. With careful selection and attention to the specific needs of shade-loving perennials, you can create a stunning and vibrant shade garden that comes to life in late summer.

August Blooming Perennials for Shade

Hostas (Hosta spp.): Hostas are classic shade-loving perennials known for their attractive foliage and elegant blooms. While they are primarily appreciated for their leaves, many hosta varieties produce tall spikes of lavender, white, or pale pink flowers in August, adding a touch of grace and beauty to the shade garden.
Astilbes (Astilbe spp.): With their feathery plumes in shades of pink, red, purple, and white, Astilbes are excellent choices for adding texture and color to shady spots. These perennials prefer moist soil and are ideal for planting in areas that receive morning sun and afternoon shade.
Hellebores (Helleborus spp.): Hellebores, also known as Lenten Roses, are early blooming shade perennials that often extend their blooms into August. These delicate and nodding flowers come in various colors, including white, pink, purple, and green, and they provide a lovely contrast to the lush greenery of the shade garden.
Japanese Anemone (Anemone x hybrida): As mentioned earlier, Japanese Anemones are versatile perennials that can thrive in both sunny and shady locations. In the shade garden, they will bloom a bit later in August, adding a touch of elegance with their pink or white flowers.
Toad Lilies (Tricyrtis spp.): Toad Lilies are unique and charming perennials that bloom in late summer and early fall. Their small, intricate flowers have beautiful speckled patterns and come in various shades of purple, pink, and white.
Bugbane (Cimicifuga racemosa): Bugbane, also known as Actaea, is a tall and dramatic perennial that produces long, spiky white flower clusters in late summer. Its blooms provide a stunning focal point in the shade garden and also attract pollinators.
Turtlehead (Chelone lyonii): As mentioned earlier, Turtlehead is a shade-loving perennial that produces delightful pink or white flowers that resemble the head of a turtle. It brings a touch of whimsy and color to the late summer shade garden.
Foamflower (Tiarella spp.): Foamflowers are low-growing perennials that thrive in the dappled shade of Zone 5 gardens. Their delicate and frothy blooms in shades of white and pink create a soft and ethereal ambiance in the shade garden.
Ligularia (Ligularia spp.): Ligularias are striking perennials with large, bold leaves and tall spikes of yellow or orange daisy-like flowers. They prefer consistently moist soil and partial to full shade, making them well-suited for shady areas in Zone 5 gardens.
Bleeding Heart (Dicentra spectabilis): While Bleeding Hearts are more commonly associated with spring bloomers, they can sometimes produce a second flush of flowers in late summer, especially in cooler climates like Zone 5. Their heart-shaped pink or white flowers add a touch of romance to the shade garden.

When planning your shade garden for August bloomers in Zone 5, remember to provide adequate moisture and choose plants that can thrive in low light conditions. Proper mulching and regular watering will help keep the soil cool and moist during the hot summer days. Additionally, if you’re looking to plant perennials that are native to Ontario, many of these varieties also do well in shady situations.

Perennials Native to Ontario

Common Milkweed (Asclepias syriaca)
Butterfly Milkweed (Asclepias tuberosa)
Purple Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea)
Black-Eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta)
Wild Bergamot (Monarda fistulosa)
Cardinal Flower (Lobelia cardinalis)
Joe-Pye Weed (Eutrochium maculatum)
Eastern Purple Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea)
Swamp Milkweed (Asclepias incarnata)
New England Aster (Symphyotrichum novae-angliae)
Culver’s Root (Veronicastrum virginicum)
Eastern Blazing Star (Liatris scariosa)
Great Blue Lobelia (Lobelia siphilitica)
Black Cohosh (Actaea racemosa)
Wild Columbine (Aquilegia canadensis)
Canada Lily (Lilium canadense)
Wild Lupine (Lupinus perennis)
Sneezeweed (Helenium autumnale)
Showy Tick Trefoil (Desmodium canadense)
Purple Bergamot (Monarda media)

These native plants not only add beauty to your garden but also provide valuable resources for local wildlife, including pollinators like bees and butterflies. As with any gardening endeavor, it’s essential to consider the specific conditions of your garden and choose plants that will thrive in your particular location. Enjoy the process and appreciate the rewards that garening brings!

The Japanese Beetle Battle

Japanese beetles (Popillia japonica) are a highly destructive and invasive species that pose a significant threat to gardens and landscapes across our regions. Originating from Japan, these beetles were accidentally introduced to the United States in the early 20th century and have since become a major nuisance for gardeners in North America. Known for their voracious appetite, Japanese beetles can quickly decimate plants, flowers, and trees if left unchecked. Let’s explore the behavior, lifecycle, and effective strategies to combat Japanese beetles and safeguard your garden.

Identification & Behaviour

Japanese beetles are small insects, measuring about half an inch in length, with metallic green bodies and copper-brown wings. They are easily recognizable due to their unique appearance and tend to congregate in large groups. Japanese beetles are most active during the summer months, typically from June to August, and are primarily active during the daytime.

These beetles have a diverse palate and feed on over 300 different plant species, making them a significant threat to a wide range of garden plants. They are particularly attracted to roses, grapes, linden trees, raspberries, and many other ornamental plants and fruits. Japanese beetles feed on the leaves, flowers, and fruits of their host plants, leaving behind skeletonized foliage and often causing severe damage.

Lifecycle

Understanding the lifecycle of Japanese beetles is crucial in developing effective control strategies. The adult beetles emerge from the ground in early summer, usually in late June or early July, and start feeding immediately. The beetles mate, and the females lay their eggs in the soil during this time. The eggs hatch into small, white grubs, which then feed on the roots of grasses and other plants throughout late summer and fall. The grubs overwinter in the soil, remaining dormant until spring when they resume feeding. As the weather warms, the grubs pupate and transform into adult beetles, emerging from the ground to begin the cycle anew. This lifecycle spans a year, and each generation can cause significant damage to your garden.

Preferred Plants

While they have a wide range of host plants, some of the most commonly affected plants by Japanese beetle damage include:

Roses: Japanese beetles are particularly fond of roses and can quickly defoliate the plants. They feed on the leaves, leaving behind a lacy skeletonized appearance.
Grapes: Both the foliage and fruits of grapevines are susceptible to Japanese beetle feeding. They chew on the leaves, often leaving only the veins behind, and can damage developing grapes, causing them to become scarred or even drop prematurely.
Fruit Trees: Japanese beetles can cause harm to various fruit trees, including apple, cherry, peach, and plum. They chew on the leaves, leading to skeletonized foliage, and can also attack the fruits.
Linden Trees: Linden or basswood trees are highly attractive to Japanese beetles. The beetles can defoliate the trees, leaving them vulnerable to stress and other diseases.
Birch Trees Japanese beetles can damage the leaves of birch trees, creating a lace-like pattern as they consume the foliage. This can weaken the tree’s overall health if the infestation is severe.
Hibiscus: Japanese beetles can inflict damage on both perennial and annual varieties of hibiscus. They consume the leaves, flowers, and buds, often resulting in unsightly foliage and diminished blooming.
Corn: While primarily known for their damage to ornamental plants, Japanese beetles can also be problematic for agricultural crops. They can attack corn plants, feeding on the silks and tassels, which can interfere with pollination and affect crop yield.
Beans: Japanese beetles can cause significant damage to bean plants, including green beans and soybeans. They eat the leaves, often leaving behind only the veins, and can affect the plant’s ability to photosynthesize.
Ornamental Shrubs: Japanese beetles can target various ornamental shrubs, such as hydrangeas, azaleas, and viburnums. They chew on the foliage, causing leaves to become skeletonized and diminishing the overall aesthetic appeal of the plants.

It’s important to note that while these plants are commonly affected by Japanese beetles, the infestation severity can vary depending on the region and specific circumstances. Gardeners often employ various control measures to manage Japanese beetle populations and minimize damage to their plants.

Japanese beetles can also cause damage to a variety of perennial plants. Here are some perennials commonly affected by Japanese beetle damage:

Daylilies: Japanese beetles often feed on daylilies, leaving behind skeletonized leaves and sometimes consuming the flowers as well.
Hostas: Hostas are a favorite target of Japanese beetles. They can defoliate the plants, leaving only the leaf veins behind, and cause significant damage to the foliage.
Coneflowers: Japanese beetles are attracted to the flowers of coneflowers and can feed on the petals and pollen. This can result in disfigured blooms and reduce the overall attractiveness of the plant.
Black-eyed Susans: These bright yellow flowers are highly attractive to Japanese beetles. The beetles can chew on the leaves and petals, affecting the plant’s appearance.
Bee balm: Japanese beetles can damage the foliage and flowers of bee balm plants. They consume the leaves, leaving behind a lace-like pattern, and may also eat the petals of the flowers.
Phlox: Phlox plants are susceptible to Japanese beetle feeding. The beetles can consume the leaves and flowers, leading to defoliation and damage to the blooms.
Sedums: Sedum plants are not immune to Japanese beetle damage. The beetles can chew on the leaves, resulting in unsightly foliage.
Peonies: Japanese beetles can cause harm to peony plants by feeding on the leaves and flowers. They can leave behind skeletonized foliage and may also damage the petals.
Irises: While not their preferred food source, Japanese beetles can still cause damage to iris plants. They may consume the leaves and can chew on the flower petals, affecting the overall appearance.
Delphiniums: Delphiniums are another perennial susceptible to Japanese beetle damage. The beetles can eat the leaves and flowers, leading to defoliation and diminished blooms.

Controls

While completely eradicating Japanese beetles from your garden may be challenging, several strategies can help you control their population and minimize the damage they cause:

Handpicking: Check your plants regularly and handpick the beetles, dropping them into a bucket of soapy water. This method is most effective in the morning when the beetles are less active.
Companion Planting: Intercropping certain plants can help deter Japanese beetles. They tend to avoid strongly scented plants such as garlic, catnip, chives, and marigolds. Consider planting these as companions to your vulnerable plants.
Insecticides: If the infestation is severe and other methods have proven ineffective, insecticides labeled for Japanese beetle control can be used. Follow the instructions carefully and consider less toxic options first.

Pheromone Traps

Using pheromone traps is one method that can be employed to control Japanese beetles in a targeted manner. Pheromone traps are designed to attract and trap adult beetles by using a synthetic sex pheromone that mimics the scent released by female beetles. Here’s how you can use pheromone traps for Japanese beetle control:

Placement: Set up the traps in your garden or affected areas in late spring or early summer when adult Japanese beetles are active. Place the traps away from desirable plants to lure the beetles away from your prized flowers and vegetables.
Follow instructions: Read and follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully when setting up the traps. Each trap may have specific guidelines regarding placement, height, and distance from plants.
Timing: Set up the traps early in the morning when the beetles are typically less active. Empty and replace the traps daily or every few days to ensure they remain effective.
Regular maintenance: Monitor the traps regularly and empty them to prevent the beetles from escaping or attracting even more beetles to the area. Dispose of the trapped beetles by either drowning them in soapy water or placing them in a sealed bag before discarding.
Multiple traps: If you have a large garden or a significant Japanese beetle infestation, you may need to use multiple traps strategically placed throughout the area to increase effectiveness.
Watch our video on how to assemble a pheromone trap here!

It’s important to note that while pheromone traps can capture a significant number of adult Japanese beetles, they may not eliminate the entire population. These traps work best as part of an integrated pest management approach that combines various control methods. Other techniques to consider include handpicking beetles, using insecticidal sprays (preferably organic and targeted), employing physical barriers like floating row covers, and cultivating plants that are less attractive to Japanese beetles.

Keep in mind that pheromone traps can attract beetles from neighboring areas, so it’s essential to coordinate with your neighbors if they also have Japanese beetle problems. By combining various control methods and staying vigilant, you can help reduce the population of Japanese beetles and protect your plants.

Japanese beetles are a significant challenge for gardeners, but with proper knowledge and proactive measures, you can protect your garden from their devastating impact. Regular monitoring, handpicking, and implementing preventive strategies such as companion planting and traps can help deter these invasive pests. By adopting a multi-pronged approach and considering environmentally friendly options, you can reduce the population of Japanese beetles and preserve the beauty and health of your garden.

Download our Japanese Beetle Root Wisdom Information Sheet

Deadheading Annual and Perennial Flowers: Cultivating Beauty and Promoting Growth

Flowers are not only a source of natural beauty but also an essential part of our ecosystem. Whether in gardens, parks, or natural landscapes, flowers play a crucial role in pollination and attracting beneficial insects. To ensure the optimal health and aesthetics of your flower garden, deadheading—removing spent blooms—is a beneficial practice. Let’s explore the numerous advantages of deadheading annual and perennial flowers, from enhancing the appearance of your garden to stimulating vigorous growth and prolonged blooming.

Aesthetics and Visual Appeal: Deadheading flowers is primarily done to maintain a visually pleasing garden. By removing faded or wilted blooms, you promote a tidier and more attractive appearance. Regular deadheading keeps your flower beds looking fresh and vibrant, creating a visually appealing space that can be enjoyed by you, your family, and visitors.

Encourages Reblooming: One of the significant benefits of deadheading is its role in stimulating reblooming. Annual and perennial flowers produce flowers to complete their reproductive cycle. By removing spent blooms, you prevent the plant from diverting energy into seed production. Instead, the plant invests its resources into developing new buds and flowers, extending the blooming period and enhancing the overall floral display.

Prolongs the Flowering Season: Deadheading can significantly prolong the flowering season of both annual and perennial flowers. When you remove faded blooms, the plant remains in an active growth state, continuously producing new flowers. This prolongation of the flowering season allows you to enjoy the beauty and fragrance of your favorite blooms for a more extended period.

Prevents Self-Seeding and Invasive Spread: Some flowers have a tendency to self-seed and spread rapidly, potentially becoming invasive. Deadheading prevents self-seeding by removing spent flowers before they have a chance to mature into seed heads. This control measure helps maintain the desired balance in your garden, preventing certain plants from taking over and crowding out other desirable species.

Enhances Plant Health and Vigor: Regular deadheading contributes to the overall health and vigor of the plants. When flowers fade, they often attract pests or diseases. By removing these spent blooms promptly, you reduce the risk of pest infestations and the spread of diseases. Deadheading also eliminates potential breeding grounds for fungal infections, ensuring that your plants remain healthy and disease-free.
When a flower begins to wither, the plant starts directing its energy towards seed production. By deadheading, you redirect these valuable nutrients and resources to other parts of the plant, such as foliage development and root growth. This nutrient reallocation promotes overall plant strength, leading to healthier and more robust plants.
Encourages Compact Growth and Bushiness: Deadheading plays a role in promoting compact growth and bushiness in certain annual and perennial flowers. By removing spent blooms, you prevent the plant from focusing on seed production and instead encourage lateral branching. This lateral branching results in a fuller, denser plant with more flowers, creating a lush and appealing display.

Attracts Beneficial Insects: Flowers attract a variety of beneficial insects, including bees, butterflies, and other pollinators. Deadheading keeps your garden full of fresh, vibrant blooms that continue to attract these important pollinators. The presence of pollinators enhances biodiversity, supports ecological balance, and contributes to the overall health of your garden ecosystem.

Allows for Selective Pruning and Shaping: Deadheading provides an opportunity for selective pruning and shaping of your flower plants. By removing spent blooms, you can control the size and shape of the plant, ensuring it fits harmoniously within your garden design. This practice also allows you to remove any damaged or diseased parts, promoting healthier growth and maintaining an aesthetically pleasing form.

Encourages a Sense of Gardening Satisfaction: Lastly, deadheading can offer a sense of gardening satisfaction and fulfillment. The act of tending to your plants, removing spent blooms, and witnessing the subsequent growth and beauty can be deeply rewarding. Deadheading allows you to actively engage with your garden, fostering a deeper connection with nature and a sense of pride in your horticultural achievements.

Deadheading annual and perennial flowers provides a multitude of benefits, from enhancing the visual appeal of your garden to promoting vigorous growth and prolonged blooming. By regularly removing faded blooms, you not only maintain a tidy and attractive garden but also stimulate reblooming, prolong the flowering season, and divert nutrients and resources to the plant’s overall health. Additionally, deadheading prevents self-seeding, encourages compact growth, attracts beneficial insects, allows for selective pruning, and offers a sense of gardening satisfaction. Embrace the practice of deadheading, and you will reap the rewards of a flourishing and beautiful flower garden.

Perennials That Benefit from Deadheading

Daisy-like or broadflower blooms such as: Asters (Aster), Purple Coneflower (Echinacea), Shasta Daisies (Leucanthemum), Rudbeckia, Yarrow (Achillea), Blanket Flower (Gaillardia) and Beebalm (Monarda). These benefit from removing the spent blooms to keep appearances tidy.

Individual flowers: Daylilies (Hemerocallis), Peach-leaved Bellflower (Campanula persicifolia), Balloon Flower (Platycodon) and a few others. This group reacts well to deadheading their individual spent flowers while new buds on forming on the same stems.

Self starters: Perennials that self-seed and propagate themselves within the area can become overbearing if left without deadheading. This group includes: Columbine (Aquilegia), Sweet William (Dianthus barbatus), Common Yarrow (Achillea millefolium), Perennial Bachelor’s Buttons (Centaurea), Jacob’s Ladder (Polemonium).

Annuals That Benefit from Deadheading

Zinnias
Cosmos
Marigolds
Delphiniums
Hollyhocks
Marguerite Daisies
Geraniums
Petunias

Download Our Deadheading Annuals & Perennials Root Wisdom Information Sheet

Spring Bulbs: Naturally Increase Their Longevity

Spring bulbs are a beloved addition to gardens, bringing color and life to outdoor spaces after a long, cold winter. Tulips, daffodils, hyacinths, and crocuses are some of the most popular varieties of spring bulbs, and they all have one thing in common: they require a period of dormancy after they bloom in order to thrive the following year.

One of the most important steps in caring for spring bulbs is to let the foliage die back naturally. This can be a challenging task for gardeners who are eager to tidy up their outdoor spaces after a long winter, but it is essential for the health and vitality of the bulbs. It can feel counterintuitive, yet this natural process is integral to increasing the longevity of your spring flowering bulbs.

When spring bulbs bloom, they use up a great deal of energy stored in their bulbs to produce their beautiful flowers. After they finish blooming, the plants shift their focus to replenishing that energy for the following year. The green leaves of the plants are the primary source of energy production through photosynthesis, so it is important to allow them to continue growing until they turn yellow and begin to wither.

In addition to providing energy for the bulbs, the dying foliage also plays an important role in protecting the bulbs during their dormant period. The leaves help to shade the bulbs from the sun, which can dry them out and cause them to lose moisture. They also provide a physical barrier to protect the bulbs from pests and disease.

Allowing the foliage to die back naturally is easy to do. Simply let the leaves continue to grow and photosynthesize until they turn yellow and begin to wither. At this point, they can be gently removed by pulling them away from the bulb. It is important to avoid cutting the leaves, as this can damage the bulb and make it more vulnerable to disease.

If you find the dying foliage unsightly, there are a few things you can do to help disguise it. One option is to plant other annuals or perennials around the bulbs that will grow up and cover the dying foliage. This can create a more natural and cohesive look in the garden, and will help to protect the bulbs as well. Part of planning a garden is accounting for succession of bloom and growth, and by planting perennials as coverage for the dying foliage you’re also adding to the sequence of bloom. Hostas, ornamental grasses and other large-leaved perennials are extremely effective in this application.

Another option is to strategically place garden ornaments, such as statues or bird baths, around the bulbs to distract from the dying foliage. This can be a fun and creative way to add interest and personality to your garden. You can also plant your spring bulbs in areas where the dying foliage will not be as noticeable, such as behind other plants or in a designated bulb bed.

Several spring flowering bulbs lend themselves well to being naturalized within a lawn. Crocus, snowdrops, scilla, and muscari can be planted right in a grassy place where they will multiply and naturalize over time. In this application, it is just as important to allow the foliage to naturally die back; this means the first cut of the lawn may occur later than normally expected.

In conclusion, letting foliage die back on spring bulbs is an essential step in caring for these beautiful plants. Although it may be tempting to cut back the foliage as soon as the flowers have faded, doing so can have a negative impact on the health and vitality of the bulbs. Allowing the leaves to continue growing and photosynthesizing until they turn yellow and begin to wither is the best way to ensure that the bulbs have enough energy to bloom again the following year. Incorporating proper fertilization into your garden routine will also help to ensure the bulbs are growing and increasing in size. By following these simple steps, you can enjoy a beautiful and thriving garden filled with colorful spring bulbs year after year.

The Box Tree Moth in Southern Ontario: A Growing Threat to Ornamental Landscapes

The Box Tree Moth (Cydalima perspectalis), native to East Asia, has become a concerning pest in various parts of the world, including southern Ontario, Canada. This invasive species poses a significant threat to the region’s beloved boxwood shrubs and other ornamental plants. With its voracious appetite and rapid reproductive capacity, the Box Tree Moth has the potential to cause extensive damage to the local ecosystem and horticultural industry. This article explores the characteristics, lifecycle, impacts, and management strategies related to the Box Tree Moth invasion in southern Ontario.

This week (June 6) the larvae have been identified in many regions, and large losses of boxwood hedges are already being reported. We encourage you to become familiar with the characteristics and stages of this pest, and monitor your landscapes and gardens frequently for its presence.

Characteristics of the Box Tree Moth: The Box Tree Moth is a small-sized moth with a wingspan of about 4 centimeters. The adult moths have white wings with a brown border and distinctive dark markings. However, it is the larvae that are most damaging. These caterpillars are bright green with black heads, and they can grow up to 4 centimeters in length. The Box Tree Moth larvae are known for their voracious feeding habits, consuming the foliage of boxwood plants, which are widely cultivated in southern Ontario for their aesthetic appeal and structural use in gardens and landscapes.

Life Cycle and Reproduction: The life cycle of the Box Tree Moth consists of four stages: egg, larva, pupa, and adult. Adult female moths lay clusters of up to 100 eggs on the underside of boxwood leaves during the summer months. The eggs hatch within a week, giving rise to the caterpillars that begin feeding on the foliage. The larvae undergo several molts as they grow, consuming increasing amounts of plant material. They spin silk threads to create protective webs, which can engulf entire boxwood shrubs. The caterpillars eventually pupate within these webs, emerging as adult moths after approximately two weeks. The moths are active during the warmer months and can produce multiple generations per year, allowing for a rapid increase in population size.

It is important to note that after a few seasons of Spongy Moth (LD Moth) infestations, learning to distinguish between the two moths is crucial in preventing the spread of Box Tree Moth. Learn to identify the differences here.

Impacts on Ornamental Landscapes: The introduction of the Box Tree Moth to southern Ontario poses a grave threat to the region’s ornamental landscapes. Boxwood shrubs are highly valued for their dense evergreen foliage, ability to be shaped into various forms, and resistance to deer browsing. However, infestations by the Box Tree Moth larvae lead to defoliation, resulting in weakened and disfigured plants that are susceptible to secondary infections and increased mortality. The aesthetic appeal and structural integrity of ornamental gardens, hedges, and topiaries suffer greatly when invaded by this destructive pest.

Management and Control Measures: To mitigate the damage caused by the Box Tree Moth, it is crucial to implement effective management and control measures. Early detection through regular inspection is vital to identify infestations and take prompt action. Cultural practices such as pruning and maintaining plant health can help mitigate the impact of infestations. Manual removal of caterpillars and egg clusters is an effective control method for small-scale or localized infestations. However, chemical insecticides are often necessary for larger-scale control. When using insecticides, it is essential to choose products labeled for the control of caterpillars and follow the instructions carefully.

Furthermore, raising awareness among the general public, horticultural professionals, and nursery operators is vital to prevent the accidental spread of the Box Tree Moth. As growers of boxwood, Connon Nurseries is being diligent in educating their teams and customers about the risk that this pest poses. Collaboration between government agencies, researchers, and the public is essential for implementing integrated pest management strategies, including biological control agents such as parasitic wasps that target the Box Tree Moth.

The Box Tree Moth invasion in southern Ontario poses a significant threat to the region’s ornamental landscapes. Implementing vigilant monitoring, cultural practices, and appropriate control measures can help mitigate the impact of this invasive pest and preserve the beauty of boxwood shrubs and other ornamental plants.

Download our Box Tree Moth Root Wisdom Information Sheet